Summer Rock Climbing in Canada

I’ve finally met up with Jimmy for the 4 months we’ll be spending together.  The first stop is Canada, and specifically the Bugaboos.  There, we’re going to focus on moving efficiently on some alpine rock, before we head to Squamish to get STRONG!

Recent trip reports:

East Pillar attempt on Slesse, NEB, and SE Couloir descent - A few weekends ago, Jimmy and I spent two nights and days up at Slesse camped at the propellor cairn.  Here are some notes from the trip that include details on our East pillar attempt and a descent of the SE couloir from the summit. Day 1 – East Pillar attempt I think Jimmy and […]
Wine Spires: Rebel Yell, Silver Star, Burgundy and more - It sometimes feels funny to write a trip report for an area for which a ton of beta already exists in the form of guidebooks and blog posts.  That being said, I think I am often motivated to share a special experience with others such that they might repeat it.  My recent trip into the […]
Cerberus and my first night on a portaledge - As one of the final adventures in Squamish, I wanted to sleep up on the Chief on a porta-ledge.  Austin Siadak was kind enough to let Jimmy and I borrow his ledge for our trip to the Valley.  With several sessions of practicing the setup and teardown process for the ledge, it was time to […]
First trip and Some Beta to the Bugaboos - Ahhhh the Bugaboos….probably alpine rock climbing at its very best:  easy access, a comfortable campground, short glacier approaches, plentiful route information, and beautiful granite walls.  Jimmy and I enjoyed all this, complemented by splitter weather.  We definitely have some ideas for how to make it even better next time, but as a first destination on […]
The Becky-Chouinard in a day - This must be one of the most talked-about climbs in Canada, and certainly in the Bugaboos. I mentioned in my overall trip report that everyone visiting the Bugaboos for their first time seems to repeat the same 5 climbs.  This is one of them.  I would compare the Becky to climbing the North Ridge of […]



Recent tips and Techniques:

Taping your tips - A brief post about a lesson learned from a good friend (Jean Spencer), specifically about taping your finger tips… I just left Squamish after nearly a month and a half there.  Maybe at the risk of over-training a bit, I was climbing 4-5 days a week, if not more.  Often this meant that the skin […]
How leave the second pack in the car - Leading with a pack (or even following) can be quite the energy drain.  Even if the pack is light, you’ll still have an extra bit of bulk on your back will prevent you from squeezing through chimneys or scuffing up flares.  Though one pack is nearly always necessary for longer climbs (6 pitches or so […]