Summer in the Pacific Northwest

Summer in the Pacific Northwest puts most other places to shame.  Even with the freedom to travel and lots of good climbing to look forward to, I am pretty happy to be here.  Hope to see you in the hills!

Recent trip reports:

August Ascent of North Ridge of Baker - I moved to Bellingham a few weeks ago to get away from Seattle traffic for a bit.  That means longer drives to some of the best cragging areas around, like Index, but being closer to a slew of opportunities to spend full-days outside in the North Cascades. One such opportunity close to town is Mt […]
The Maw and Uncle Wehrly’s Toupee - A few weeks ago, Eric Wehrly and I headed up to Half-Moon to attempt some sort of squeeze job between routes that already exist on the NW aspect. One of them, Digging for Dreams, made it into Cascades Rock and we were curious what else might still be lingering (see: http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2012/04/first-ascent-diggin-for-dreams.html). Of course, Eric and […]
Riki Tiki Tavi - A short post on a climb seldom done:  Riki Tiki Tavi on Colchuck Balanced Rock. Ben, Jimmy, and I went in there a week ago to check out this line that is like the Scoop in nature.  A few throw away pitches, some thoughtful 5.10, and a killer 5.11 corner. There is already a mountain […]
Wine Spires: Rebel Yell, Silver Star, Burgundy and more - It sometimes feels funny to write a trip report for an area for which a ton of beta already exists in the form of guidebooks and blog posts.  That being said, I think I am often motivated to share a special experience with others such that they might repeat it.  My recent trip into the […]
Cascades Rock FA: “Act like you’re having fun”, III, 5.10+ - I’ve always wanted to do a rock first ascent in the Cascades, so when Eric Wehrly called, emailed, and sent me a text message to go climbing (he needed a bit of the drug we all love), I took the bait. The trip helped me to fulfill next years quota for bush-whacking, but we did ended […]
SEWS: The Passenger and Southern Man - There are moments where I wonder why I am still in Washington when I have opportunity to travel.  Then I immediately think of all the times where I wished I had the freedom to sample amazing climbs in Washington, and to enjoy the beautiful summer days, on less the crowded days of the week. Last week, […]
Party Climbing the CNR - Two years ago, I first climbed Mt. Stuart with Carson.  It was my first large alpine objective and ended up being a long two days.  At the time, I thought the way to go “fast and light”, even for an overnight objective, was to skip the sleeping bag.  I paid the price and shivered all […]

 

 

Recent tips and Techniques:

Mixing Life, Climbing and Training Goals – My Training Schedule - Mixing Life, Climbing and Training Goals I’ve got some climbing objectives coming up later in the summer that I should be training for.  The problem is that the training I am doing conflicts with some of the climbing I want to be doing right NOW.  How do we balance such challenges, especially when the types […]
Ropeman + Gri-Gri: A Lightweight Jugging Setup - A while ago I wrote about some of the multi-pitch harness essentials I always carry with me while climbing.  One of them was a Wild Country Ropeman.  The other thing I always like to have between my partner and I on most climbs, even long or alpine rock routes, is a Gri-Gri. I’ve found these two […]
Using a thin tag-line to haul and rappel - When I went to Chamonix a few months ago, I bought a 60x6mm accessory chord to accompany the 60m single line I was flying out with me.  My intention was to use the thinner chord as a rappel tag-line in situations where the my partner didn’t have a set of halves, or at least a […]